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Retirement calculator

Most retirement calculators stop at the big number. This one keeps going: it spends the money down, month by month, and tells you the age it runs out — with everything shown in today's money so the figures still mean something.

Last updated: August 2026 · Standard financial formulas, computed in your browser

What you are putting in
$
$
$
Assumptions
%
%
%
Your money lasts until age
Nest egg at retirement
In today's money
Safe monthly income
You will have paid in

Where you stand

AgePaid inGrowthBalance (today's money)

Every figure is shown in today's money: what the balance would buy at today's prices.

Two phases, two very different questions

Retirement planning is really two calculations stitched together, and most tools only show you the first.

Accumulation runs from today until the day you stop working. Your balance grows from contributions and returns, and the formula is the standard future value of a lump sum plus a monthly stream:

Nest egg = Saved × (1+i)^n + Monthly × (((1+i)^n − 1) ÷ i)

Drawdown starts the day after. Now the balance is being spent while whatever is left keeps earning. That is the phase that decides whether the plan works, and it is the one that gets skipped — a large number at 65 tells you nothing until you know what it buys and for how long.

Why everything is shown in today's money

A projected nest egg of 800,000 in thirty years sounds like a lot. At 2.5% inflation it buys what about 380,000 buys today — comfortable, but a different picture entirely. Presenting the big nominal number without that translation is the single most misleading thing a retirement calculator can do.

So this one converts everything back: the balance you see on the chart, in the table, and the monthly income figure, are all expressed at today's prices. The drawdown assumes your spending rises with inflation, which is what actually happens.

The 4% rule, and what it really claims

The "safe monthly income" figure comes from the 4% rule: withdraw 4% of your balance in year one, then raise that amount with inflation each year afterwards. It comes from research on historical US market returns, and it was designed to survive a 30-year retirement including the worst starting years on record.

Useful, but know its limits. It assumes a portfolio with a substantial stock allocation, it is based on one country's history, and it says nothing about a retirement lasting 40 years. Treat 4% as a sanity check, not a guarantee — and note that the drawdown projection above is separate from it, using your own return and inflation assumptions instead.

Include your employer match. If your employer puts in 4% when you put in 4%, the monthly contribution to enter is both halves. It is the highest-return money in your entire plan — an instant 100% on the matched portion — and leaving it out understates your projection badly.

What to do if the number is short

It usually is at first. In rough order of how much difference they make:

Starting earlier beats all of them, and it is the only lever you cannot get back. Run the compound interest calculator to see what a ten-year head start is worth.

Frequently asked questions

Does this include state pension or social security?
No. It projects your own savings only. If you expect a state pension or social security payment, subtract it from the monthly income you enter — so if you want 3,000 a month and expect 1,200 from a state scheme, put 1,800 in the income field. Your savings only have to cover the gap.
What return should I assume?
Something you would defend to a sceptic. Broad stock market averages over long periods have been in the region of 7–10% before inflation, but no individual decade is guaranteed to look like the average. Most people shift towards bonds as retirement approaches, which is why the return during retirement is a separate, lower input. If in doubt, use a number you would be disappointed by rather than one you would be delighted by.
Why is the return in retirement lower?
Because a portfolio you are actively spending from cannot afford a bad year the way one you are still adding to can. Selling assets while they are down locks in the loss permanently, so most portfolios move towards bonds and cash near retirement. Lower expected return, much lower volatility.
Does it account for tax?
No — tax on retirement income varies enormously by country, account type and personal circumstances, and any single assumption would be wrong for most people. Treat the income figures as pre-tax and check the rules that apply to your own accounts. If you want a rough conservative view, enter your desired income as the gross amount rather than the net one.
Is running out at 90 a problem?
It depends how long you live, which is exactly the discomfort at the centre of retirement planning. A common approach is to plan to age 95 and treat anything beyond that as covered by a state pension, home equity or an annuity. If your projection runs dry in your seventies, that is a signal to act now rather than a rounding error.